The iconic Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show has officially returned after a six-year break, attempting to shed its problematic past by embracing diversity and body positivity, yet leaving many fans and critics divided on whether it has truly transformed or merely adopted performative changes while sacrificing the glamorous spectacle it was once known for.
The Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show, once a global television event, made its highly anticipated return on October 15, 2024, after a six-year hiatus. The decision to bring back the catwalk extravaganza was met with a mix of excitement and skepticism, as the brand endeavored to reinvent itself after years of public criticism and dwindling viewership.
Following its cancellation in 2019, Victoria’s Secret embarked on a journey of rebranding, promising a new vision that would genuinely reflect and champion modern women. This comeback aimed to demonstrate that the brand had listened to its critics, evolved with the times, and was ready to reclaim its place in the fashion world with a fresh, inclusive perspective.
The Dark Cloud: Past Controversies That Plagued the Brand
Before its forced hiatus, the Victoria’s Secret brand and its famous fashion show were mired in a series of deeply troubling controversies that eroded its public image and customer trust. These issues ranged from a severe lack of inclusivity to shocking allegations of misconduct within its leadership.
- Lack of Inclusivity: One of the most glaring issues was the brand’s steadfast adherence to a narrow definition of beauty, featuring predominantly thin models. This stance was explicitly articulated by former chief marketing officer and show architect Ed Razek, who, in a 2018 interview with Vogue, famously stated that transgender and plus-size models should not be in the show because “the show is a fantasy.” Razek later apologized for his comments and resigned that same year.
- “Perfect Body” Campaign: Further fueling the body shaming narrative was the brand’s 2014 “Perfect Body” campaign, which featured ten thin models with visible ribs, accompanied by the tagline “a body for every body.” This campaign drew widespread condemnation and prompted high-profile models like Karlie Kloss and Robyn Lawley to openly criticize the brand’s messaging, with Kloss ultimately leaving the company over it, stating she “didn’t feel it was an image that was truly reflective of who I am.”
- Culture of Misogyny: In 2020, The New York Times published an exposé detailing a “culture of misogyny” within the company, singling out Razek for alleged inappropriate conduct, including attempts to kiss models and touching one’s crotch. Razek denied the allegations, but the report highlighted systemic issues that had long plagued the brand, as detailed by The New York Times.
- Ties to Jeffrey Epstein: Perhaps the most damaging controversy involved former parent company L Brands’ CEO and founder Leslie Wexner and his close relationship with convicted sex offender Jeffrey Epstein. Epstein became Wexner’s primary financial adviser, wielding power of attorney over his finances. Hulu’s documentary, “Victoria’s Secret: Angels and Demons,” explored how Epstein allegedly exploited Wexner’s properties and wealth, pretending to be a Victoria’s Secret recruiter to lure young models. The documentary also alleged that Wexner was notified of Epstein’s behavior but no action was taken for years.
The Hiatus and Initial Rebranding Efforts
Facing plummeting television ratings—falling from five million viewers in 2018 to 3.3 million in 2019, and then to 3.2 million for its last show in 2018—and intense public backlash, Victoria’s Secret officially canceled its fashion show in 2019. This decision came as rival brands like Rihanna’s Savage X Fenty successfully put inclusivity at the forefront, showcasing models of all sizes, as well as queer, trans, and non-binary individuals, effectively pushing Victoria’s Secret out of the market.
In the wake of Razek’s resignation in 2019 and Wexner’s departure from L Brands in 2021, the company embarked on a significant overhaul. This included hiring its first transgender model, Valentina Sampaio, and its first plus-size model, Ali Tate Cutler. The brand also launched a new campaign featuring women of various body types and professions, including tennis star Naomi Osaka and plus-size model Paloma Elsesser. Stores began displaying curvy mannequins, and for the first time, maternity bras were sold. The board of directors also saw a dramatic change, with six out of seven members being women, signifying a new direction.
The 2024 Comeback: A New Vision on Display
The Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show officially returned on October 15, 2024, streaming on Prime Video from the Duggal Greenhouse in Brooklyn, New York. Timothy Johnson, Victoria’s Secret CFO, confirmed the return, stating the new version would “reinforce our commitment to championing women’s voices and their unique perspectives.” This comeback was a deliberate effort to “reflect who we are today,” as the company announced.
Embracing Inclusivity and Female Empowerment
The 2024 show aimed to deliver on its promise of inclusivity, featuring a more diverse cast of models. Highlights included:
- The return of iconic supermodels alongside newcomers, including transgender models Alex Consani and Valentina Sampaio.
- Plus-size models Ashley Green and Paloma Elsesser walking the runway.
- Over 15 mothers, including Jasmine Tookes with her baby bump, showcasing diversity in life stages.
- The historic runway debut of professional athlete Angel Reese, marking a significant step beyond traditional modeling.
- A significant shift by having all-female performers, including global superstar Lisa of Blackpink opening the show, followed by South African pop star Tyla, guitarist Orianthi, and the legendary Cher closing the event. This move was intended to remove the “male gaze” that had previously dominated the show’s aesthetic.
The show also saw a grand return of ’90s supermodels like Kate Moss, Carla Bruni, Adriana Lima, Alessandra Ambrosio, and Tyra Banks, who opened the show with a powerful voiceover, proclaiming, “a brand new Victoria’s Secret fashion show, where women take the reins and the spotlight.”
The Nostalgia Factor and Missed Elements
While the brand made strides in diversity, critics and long-time fans expressed mixed feelings. Many felt the show lacked the “glitz, sparkles, and color” of its predecessors. Associate editor Aiyana Ishmael from Teen Vogue noted that despite the presence of a few plus-size models, the runway was “overwhelmingly thin,” indicating a need for deeper commitment to body positivity beyond superficial representation.
A significant point of contention for nostalgic fans was the absence of the famed Fantasy Bra. This million-dollar, Swarovski crystal-adorned centerpiece, worn by legendary models like Claudia Schiffer, Gisele Bündchen, and Heidi Klum, was a highlight that symbolized the show’s aspirational and fantastical nature. Its discontinuation, aimed at making the brand more “accessible,” was seen by some as stripping away the very glamour that made the show an event.
The concept of Victoria’s Secret Angels—an elite group of supermodels who donned the brand’s iconic wings—was also a cherished element that many wished to see fully restored. These Angels brought a level of celebrity and aspiration that made the show a unique viewing experience, effectively bringing high fashion directly into living rooms.
Furthermore, the shift from network television to streaming on Prime Video, while convenient, also contributed to a perceived loss of grandeur. For many, watching the show on network TV made it a collective annual event, an appointment viewing that streaming might dilute.
The Road Ahead: True Inclusivity or Performative Change?
The return of the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show marks a pivotal moment for the brand. While initial efforts towards diversity are commendable, the ultimate success will hinge on whether these changes are deeply ingrained in the brand’s philosophy or merely performative. As singer Lizzo questioned, “if brands start doing this only because they’ve received backlash, then what happens when the ‘trends’ change again?”
The brand’s future depends on balancing its newfound commitment to inclusivity with the theatricality that once made it a global phenomenon. For a community that cherished the spectacle, finding a way to integrate elements of its aspirational past, such as the Fantasy Bra, while upholding its promise of genuine representation, could be the key to truly winning back its audience and establishing lasting relevance in a transformed fashion landscape.
For more detailed insights into the show’s return and fan reactions, you can read the full recap on People. To understand the historical context of the brand’s controversies, especially concerning allegations against former executive Ed Razek, refer to the extensive report by The New York Times.