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Michael Rider unveiled his debut spring/summer 2026 collection at Celine at the beginning of July, marking a much-anticipated return to the runway for the French fashion house following a two-year fashion week hiatus under the helm of Hedi Slimane.
His debut received an overwhelmingly positive response from the industry, with the collection encompassing the spirit of Celine eras past and present—including a revival of Phoebe Philo’s signature Phantom bag in a new, oversized silhouette. It’s no surprise, then, that consumers are flocking to purchase their own piece of Celine’s heritage.
In the week following Rider’s show, luxury fashion re-saler Vestiaire Collective saw a 35% increase in searches for Celine, with handbags, travel bags and sunglasses making up the highest volume.
In particular, Celine’s Phantom and Trapeze bags have seen a huge uptick in demand, with search for the styles having increased by 261% and 271% respectively compared to last month.
And it’s not just Vestiaire Collective that’s seeing a desire for Old Celine. The RealReal reported a 13% swell in searches for Celine post-show, with the Phantom luggage bag again proving to be a fan favorite; the style boasted a 296% leap in searches in the seven days following Rider’s spring/summer show. eBay’s Watchlist trend report also cited Celine’s Triomphe bag as one of its best-selling pre-loved handbags for the first quarter of 2025.
The fashion industry has encountered a growing demand for vintage bags over the past few years, driven by a mix of Nineties and Noughties nostalgia, sustainability awareness, and a noticeable uptick in celebrities favoring archival pieces. While high-fashion brands are responding to the call with new re-editions and re-releases—from Louis Vuitton’s cult Murakami collection to Fendi’s Spy bag—those with an appetite for vintage are relishing the opportunity to buy original pieces through resale.
Rider is, himself, an alumni of Philo’s Celine, an era which has already seen fervent nostalgia and a growing cult following in the years post-tenure. The rocketing demand for these Philo-era pieces culminates in an organic full-circle moment, and a rather fitting ode to Rider’s previous tutor.
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