Kyaukme, a strategically vital town in Myanmar’s Shan State, lays devastated by the ongoing civil war, ten days after its recapture by the military government. Its eerie silence speaks volumes about the conflict’s profound human cost and lingering dangers, as an Associated Press journalist’s rare visit revealed widespread destruction and a population reluctant to return.
The town of Kyaukme in Myanmar’s Shan State now stands eerily silent, ten days after its recapture by the country’s military government. What was once a thriving hub is now largely in shambles, a testament to the brutal civil war that continues to grip the Southeast Asian nation. A rare visit by an Associated Press journalist on October 10, 2025, revealed a landscape of destruction and a palpable sense of apprehension among the few remaining residents.
Schools have reopened, but the town’s once-busy market remains mostly empty. Vendors at some stalls visibly closed them at the sight of visiting journalists, reflecting the deep-seated nervousness and fear that pervades the area. This snapshot of Kyaukme offers a grim insight into the devastating impact of a conflict that sees both sides vie fiercely for control of strategic locations.
A Town Reclaimed, But Not Restored: The Battle for Kyaukme
The recent recapture of Kyaukme by the military government on October 1, following a three-week battle, marked a significant victory for government forces. However, this triumph comes at an immense cost to the town’s infrastructure and its people. Journalists observed the charred wreckage of key official buildings, including the courthouse, police station, and various government housing units. The town’s hospital suffered extensive damage, forcing its operations to temporarily relocate to a nearby Chinese temple. Even one of the town’s fire engines was burnt out.
While civilian houses appeared largely unscathed, particularly those not adjacent to official structures, the majority of Kyaukme’s original population of 46,000 had already fled. The opposing forces offer conflicting accounts of who is responsible for the widespread destruction. The ethnic militia that previously held the town accuses the army of causing the damage through air strikes and heavy weapons. Conversely, the government soldiers who took over claim the militia deliberately destroyed structures during their retreat, highlighting the contentious narratives surrounding the conflict’s impact.
The Human Cost: A Fleeing Population and Lingering Dangers
The overwhelming majority of Kyaukme’s residents fled after fighting intensified last year, with only a small fraction returning since its recapture. Those who remained often did so out of necessity, unable to afford to leave the war-torn area. A motorbike taxi driver, speaking on condition of anonymity for security reasons, described the town’s once-busy streets as “virtually deserted,” expressing a common sentiment that residents would not return until the army secured more nearby towns.
The dangers are omnipresent. Authorities restricted journalists’ access to certain residential areas, citing the presence of unexploded landmines. A local captain confirmed that parts of the neighborhood still contain uncleared ordnance. Journalists themselves observed an unexploded mortar shell embedded in the ground within a Buddhist monastery compound, serving as a stark reminder of the indiscriminate nature of the conflict and the long-term threat to civilian safety.
Kyaukme’s Strategic Significance and the Broader Conflict
Kyaukme’s strategic importance cannot be overstated. Located on a vital highway connecting central Myanmar to China, approximately 115 kilometers (70 miles) northeast of Mandalay, it has been a fiercely contested prize. The town has changed hands twice since the military’s 2021 coup, which ousted the elected government of Aung San Suu Kyi and ignited the current civil war. This conflict pits the military government against an alliance of militias representing ethnic minorities and pro-democracy activists. For more context on the civil war’s origins, see this Reuters timeline.
The Ta’ang National Liberation Army (TNLA), the guerrilla army of the Palaung ethnic minority, captured Kyaukme in August 2024 as part of a wave of victories by opponents of military rule. Their successes left them in control of a significant portion of the country’s territory. However, the military’s recent recapture of Kyaukme, preceded by its July recapture of Nawnghkio—a town considered a gateway to Myanmar’s heartland due to its location at the crossroads of eastern hills and central flatlands—demonstrates the intensity of the ongoing struggle. The 55-kilometer (33-mile) road from Nawnghkio to Kyaukme is heavily scarred, flanked by buildings damaged by bombs and bullets, with military checkpoints every 500 to 1,000 meters.
The Information Blackout: Reporting from a War Zone
Reporting on the conflict in Myanmar is fraught with challenges. The military government tightly controls information, often barring journalists from entering conflict zones independently. The AP photographer’s visit to Kyaukme was only possible by joining a trip supervised by pro-military Myanmar media, underscoring the severe restrictions on press freedom. This level of control makes independent verification of claims difficult and often leaves the international community reliant on information filtered through official channels or the limited access granted to foreign media. The country’s stance on journalism has led to many journalists being jailed, a stark reality for those attempting to report on the conflict, as highlighted by Associated Press coverage.
Looking Ahead: Elections and Lingering Conflict
The military has intensified its offensives in recent months, ahead of elections slated for the end of the year. While the army hopes a high voter turnout will help legitimize these polls, critics widely dismiss them as neither free nor fair. The future of Kyaukme, like much of Myanmar, remains uncertain. With soldiers believing TNLA forces are still present in the hills just 32 kilometers (20 miles) away, the town is still very much on the front line of an active conflict.
The reluctance of its former residents to return is a powerful indicator of the instability. Until a lasting peace is established and security can be guaranteed, Kyaukme will likely remain a ghost of its past, a poignant symbol of the wider devastation wrought by Myanmar’s protracted civil war. The efforts of immigration officers, seen checking personal data for lost or damaged national registration cards in a temporary office in Kyaukme, underscore a fragile attempt at restoring normalcy amidst profound disruption.
