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This season, Schiaparelli’s Daniel Roseberry stripped his Fall 2025 couture collection of color in the quest for a more elemental approach. And after a flood of black and white, a dress of crimson satin stood out like a spot of blood on a blanched carpet—and it dripped from an exposed, beating heart.
Roseberry drew upon Schiaparelli’s foundation of surrealism and paid homage to Salvador Dalí’s 1953 The Royal Heart, a ruby-encrusted heart (the organ) that beats within the confines of a gold heart (the shape). Roseberry’s 2025 version comes similarly encrusted with red rhinestones and, heaped upon a faux décolletage, mechanically contracts and pulsates like a human heart.
The rest of the dress follows in its surrealist depiction of the human form. Roseberry re-created the shape of a torso—stomach, breasts, nipples, and all—rendered in red satin, and adhered it to the back of the garment. The result makes it feel almost as if the model’s head is on backwards. And while the bedazzled, exposed organ looks rugged in its ornamentation, the rest of the gown and its sleek physique appear soft to the touch. Inside out, upside-down, the gown challenges our perception of reality with its disconcerting beauty.
Throughout his Schiaparelli tenure, the creative director has touted his obsession with anatomy, another surrealist tenet that hearkens back to Elsa Schiaparelli’s founding principles. Noses, toes, and eyes are house signatures; the latter features prominently in the embroidery of many garments this season.
Elsewhere in the collection, Roseberry’s anatomical references aren’t always so literal. These looks feature a departure from shapewear and corsetry, an idea he explored to extremes in previous couture collections, shrinking models’ waists down to almost nothing. For Fall 2025, he let techniques like cutting fabric on the bias define curves and accentuate a wearer’s figure—that same intensity, this time with a bit more ease.
Elsa Schiaparelli was interested in the dialogue between fashion as utility versus fashion as art. She wondered, is a dress ever really just a dress? Today, the collection notes say the goal of this particular showing was to merge life and art. If the body is what gives us life, it seems that in the pursuit of art, Roseberry aims to set it free.
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