For most people, “button-down” and “button-up” are interchangeable. We use the term off-handedly whenever we need to refer to a dress shirt that has buttons up the front and buttons on the cuffs.
But as Southerners, good fashion sense is part of our DNA. We like to know what the appropriate attire might be for different occasions (even if we don’t abide by the rules, we like to know them). So it stands to reason, we should tuck this little nugget of sartorial trivia into our pockets. One never knows when she’ll need to be an expert on her husband’s outfit and whether or not it fits the bill (just me? Anyone? Anyone?).
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In many ways, men’s fashion is simpler than women’s—fewer pieces, less fuss. Then again, there are accessories and details in menswear that abide by a very specific set of rules that many men never even realize. No more! Let’s get everyone on the same page with this helpful guide to dress shirts. Blake Dubinski, co-founder of the Oxford, Mississippi, menswear brand GenTeal Apparel, weighs in.
Meet The Expert
Blake Dubinski, co-founder of the Oxford, Mississippi menswear brand GenTeal Apparel
Button-Up vs. Button-Down
So what’s the big difference? It all comes down to the collar.
“The difference between a button-up and a button-down shirt comes down to the collar, which is an often overlooked but defining detail in menswear,” says Dubinski. “A button-up is a general term for any shirt that fastens down the front. A button-down refers specifically to a shirt with buttons that fasten the collar points to the shirt.”
It’s as simple as that. If you’re looking to see which type of shirt you have, look at the collar points: If your collar has buttons, you’ve got a button-down. Think literally: The collar buttons down to the shirt; no buttons means you’re looking at a button up.
A little extra trivia: An “Oxford” shirt, another colloquial throw-away term, doesn’t refer to any old dress shirt. The term is reserved for a specific type of dress shirt fabric that’s traditionally from Scotland and currently used to refer to shirts that are a bit thicker, coarser, and sport a breast pocket.
Why Do Some Collars Button Down?
As ever, this stylistic detail was invented to serve a function.
“The button-down collar was a detail originally designed for polo players to keep their collars in place during matches, but is still widely used today for its ability to maintain a crisp, structured look through repeated wear and washing,” Dubinski says.
The history here is fascinating. In the late 19th century, as Dubinski points out, British polo players were concerned that their open collars hindered their ability to see and focus on the game; their collars were loose and flapping as they rode. They requested that their tailors add an additional button on their collar points to solve the problem.
But it wasn’t until American designer John Brooks (of Brooks Brothers) adopted the functional collar button for style purposes that it became a staple of menswear throughout the United States, and eventually around the globe.
When To Wear Button-Ups vs. Button-Downs
It can be a little daunting to know which option to choose for work or when invited to an event labeled “business casual,” but after reading this section, you’ll be a pro. As Dubinski puts it: “Each shirt serves a purpose in a well-rounded wardrobe.”
The basics? Button-down shirts are generally considered more casual, where button-ups with point or spread collars are considered more formal, as they generally call for a tie. Having said that, though, there are occasions where wearing a button-up with no tie can be appropriate, when styled properly.
“The button-down collar has long been a staple in sportswear. It’s slightly more casual and pairs well with unstructured sport coats, particularly when worn without a tie. This easygoing yet refined look is especially popular in the South, where warm weather and a relaxed approach to style shape everyday wear,” Dubinski advises.
“On the other hand, our spread collar sport shirts have no collar buttons but include collar stays to help keep the collar crisp and secure. This style offers a cleaner, more elevated appearance and is often chosen to wear with sport coats for occasions that call for a polished but modern look. Whether worn open or with a tie, the spread collar leans more formal and contemporary,” says Dubinski.
Collar stays are small, narrow inserts that tuck into the small pockets on the underside of button-up shirt collars. When inserted, they help the collar maintain its shape and prevent it from curling or spreading too far open. The key to pulling off a button-up style more formally (with suiting, for example) is a crisp, sharp collar that looks like you actually meant to arrive that way, as opposed to appearing that you accidentally forgot your tie.
Is there a favorite way to style a dress shirt in Dubinski’s eyes?
“Both styles have their place, but with our customers, it is most common to see a button-down shirt paired with a blazer and no tie. It’s comfortable, classic, and refined.”
Read the original article on Southern Living
