Rosalía’s latest music video for “Berghain” is more than just a sonic evolution; it’s a meticulously curated fashion archive, showcasing iconic early 2000s runway pieces from legendary designers like Alexander McQueen and Nicolas Ghesquière. This deep dive into vintage couture amplifies the visual narrative, thrilling fashion enthusiasts and cementing the Spanish superstar’s status as a style icon.
The highly anticipated release of Rosalía’s new single, “Berghain,” featuring collaborations with Björk and Yves Tumor, has not only marked a sonic departure from her “Motomami” era but has also delivered a breathtaking visual experience. The accompanying music video, directed by Nicolas Méndez, is a veritable treasure trove for fashion aficionados, meticulously styled by Jose Carayol to pay tribute to the most influential runway moments of the late ’90s and early 2000s.
For fans of both music and fashion, this video is a masterclass in visual storytelling, where every sartorial choice deepens the narrative. Instagram’s vigilant “armchair fashion experts” were quick to dissect each frame, identifying the significant archival pieces that underscore the video’s thematic richness.
A Cinematic & Stylistic Evolution
The “Berghain” video opens with Rosalía engaged in seemingly mundane domestic activities—running errands, cleaning house—all set against the grand backdrop of a live performance by the London Symphony Orchestra. This juxtaposition of the ordinary with the extraordinary is a recurring motif, amplified by her exquisite vintage wardrobe. The video itself serves as a prelude to her upcoming album, Lux, which reportedly delves into themes of “feminine mystique, transformation, and transcendence,” as noted by Nylon.
This deliberate fusion of sound, narrative, and high fashion creates an immersive experience, inviting viewers to explore the layers of meaning embedded in each scene. The shift from “Motomami’s” dance-floor energy to Lux’s sweeping orchestral production is mirrored by a move towards more editorial, deeply conceptual fashion choices.
Alexander McQueen: A Pillar of Early 2000s Aesthetics
A significant portion of the video’s fashion narrative is dedicated to the legacy of Alexander McQueen, highlighting pieces from two pivotal collections. The opening sequence features Rosalía in a striking black dress from McQueen’s Fall 2002 collection, recognized for its shredded, poofed sleeves and elegant scoop neckline. This piece originally debuted in blush pink on the runway, showcasing Carayol’s keen eye for reinterpretation.
The tribute continues with accessories from McQueen’s Spring 2003 collection. A close-up shot reveals beaded strappy sandals, famously adorned with rosary beads and a cross charm dangling at the ankle. This choice is particularly resonant with Rosalía’s ongoing exploration of Catholic iconography, which is even more pronounced in Lux, as seen in her album cover art where she dons a blanched nun’s habit, and song titles like “Mio Cristo” and “Divinize.”
To conclude the video’s exploration of feminine archetypes, Rosalía is seen in bed wearing an Alexander McQueen Spring 2003 button tank top. This piece, originally paired with a pleated skirt and a skull print scarf on the runway, exemplifies the era’s blend of deconstruction and intricate detail. Such deep cuts demonstrate the meticulous research undertaken by Carayol, making the video a true fashion enthusiast’s dream, as detailed by Harper’s Bazaar.
Nicolas Ghesquière’s Influence: Givenchy and Balenciaga
Beyond McQueen, the video also honors the visionary work of Nicolas Ghesquière, first through a piece from McQueen’s tenure at Givenchy, and then through Ghesquière’s own iconic era at Balenciaga. As Rosalía navigates somber city streets, she wears a grey fringed scarf top from Givenchy’s Spring 1997 collection, paired with a complementary low-slung pleated skirt. This moment highlights McQueen’s impactful, albeit brief, time at the French house.
The video further transforms, depicting Rosalía shifting from “Cinderella”-like domesticity to a “Snow White” persona, complete with a red ribbon in her hair and an embrace of furry woodland creatures. Here, she sports a stunning mini-dress from Balenciaga’s Spring 2004 collection by Nicolas Ghesquière. This blush pink style features a plunging neckline, intricate cutout details, and a micropleated skirt cut away at the hips, though Rosalía opted to omit the scuba bandeau originally seen on the runway. Ghesquière’s tenure at Balenciaga (1997-2012) remains a favorite among fashion insiders, with celebrities like Jennifer Lawrence and Keke Palmer recently unearthing pieces from his archives.
The Enduring Impact of Archival Fashion
The “Berghain” music video transcends a mere fashion moment; it’s a testament to the enduring power of archival fashion and its ability to lend depth and narrative to contemporary art. Rosalía and Jose Carayol’s thoughtful curation of these early 2000s runway pieces not only pays homage to fashion legends but also creates a compelling dialogue between past and present. The immediate and widespread acclaim on social media, from critics like @thekimbino and countless fans, underscores the cultural resonance of these sartorial decisions.
As Rosalía’s Lux album rollout continues, fans eagerly anticipate further archival fashion nods, solidifying her reputation as a groundbreaking artist whose visual and sonic expressions are deeply intertwined.
