Giorgio Armani’s first menswear collection under Leo Dell’Orco’s creative direction debuts with a fresh color palette, modern tailoring, and a star-studded front row, signaling a new era for the iconic brand.
The first Giorgio Armani menswear collection under the sole creative direction of Leo Dell’Orco debuted on Monday, marking a significant moment for the iconic brand following the passing of its founder in September. The collection, presented on the final day of Milan Fashion Week, showcased a blend of Armani’s heritage soft tailoring with a fresh, modern twist.
The show was attended by a star-studded front row, including Ricky Martin and Hudson Williams, who witnessed the unveiling of a collection that embraced a new color story. The first look featured a loden green top paired with a textured jacket and gray trousers, setting the tone for the rest of the collection. Iridescent jewel tones in soothing purples and lapis blues were prominently featured, playing beautifully off luxurious fabrics like velvet, cashmere, and chenille.
Archival Armani elements were evident in the blouson bomber jackets and belted trench coat looks, which were paired with simple white shirts, ties, and the brand’s trademark pleated trousers. Slightly crumpled fedora hats completed the looks, adding a touch of classic Armani style.
The collection concluded with a full walk-through, a departure from Armani’s usual practice of not staging a finale. The audience, including Ricky Martin, who filmed intently from the front row, applauded enthusiastically. Alex Badia, WWD’s fashion and style director, noted that the collection felt “more energetic” and had a sense of “joy,” indicating that while it was not a new beginning, there was a palpable sense of something new happening.
Carlo Capasa, the head of Milan’s fashion chamber, described the collection as very “modern” and praised it for capturing the “true spirit of Armani.” Dell’Orco, who has been Armani’s collaborator for 40 years, took a bow to long applause after the show. Unlike Armani, who typically wore a simple dark T-shirt and later added a blazer, Dell’Orco wore a double-breasted suit without a tie, signaling a subtle shift in the brand’s aesthetic.
The collection’s fresh color palette and modern tailoring were key highlights, with iridescent jewel tones and luxurious fabrics taking center stage. The use of velvet, cashmere, and chenille added a touch of opulence, while the slightly crumpled fedora hats brought a classic Armani element to the modern designs.
The debut of the first Giorgio Armani menswear collection under Leo Dell’Orco’s creative direction marks a new era for the iconic brand. With a fresh color palette, modern tailoring, and a star-studded front row, the collection signals a promising future for Giorgio Armani.
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