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As a short gal who was raised by generations of under-5’2” women, the concept of wearing shoes without even the slightest bit of lift has long seemed like a foreign concept to me. My mother, a disco queen, regaled me with tales of dancing in platforms through the ‘70s and ‘80s. My grandmother, who took the subway to work well after retirement age, always had lifts on her orthopedics. Me personally? I wore no less than 4-inch heels nearly every day of high school. (It was the 2000s, OK?)
Now, wouldn’t you know it, I also come from a long line of women with foot problems. Hoping to save myself from the same fate of podiatrist appointments and surgeries, I have, over the past few years, chilled out on the high-heel front. I wear stilettos more sparingly, stick to lower kitten heels and have—gasp—even started incorporating some comfy flats into my rotation.
While I’m a lot less self-conscious about my height as I was when I was younger, I still take it into consideration when planning my outfits to achieve the best and most flattering look for my figure (see: my tips on donning everything from maxi dresses to oversized blazers as a shortie). So when it comes to wearing flats, there are some rules of thumb—or should I say, foot—that I typically stick to, especially when it can mean the difference between looking extra-shrunken or extra-sleek. See my tips in action ahead (complete with original photos).
1. Opt for a Pointed Toe
Christian Vierig/Getty Image
I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again: The absolute best shoe shape for shorties is a pointed toe. For the less leggy among us, the sharp point helps to create an elegant, elongated line—much more so than a square or rounded toe, which can appear to cut off your foot, and therefore your leg, abruptly. And when you don’t have that heel to give your height a boost, this effect is all the more essential. Whether I’m shopping for boots, pumps or ballet flats, I always seek out a sharp (or even almond) toe, and it hasn’t failed me yet.
2. The Lower the Vamp, the Better
In that same vein, I stick to styles with a lower vamp (aka upper) that shows off more of the top of my foot. The reasoning for this is similar to why I prefer a sharper toe—it tricks the eye of my beholder into thinking that my leg continues on longer than it actually does by way of displaying more skin. (Hey, when you’re 5’1″, you learn how to make these optical illusions work in your favor.)
3. Show Off Some Ankle
Original photo by Stephanie Maida
Speaking of illusions…while it may seem counterintuitive, donning your flats with cuffed or cropped pants that show off your ankle can actually make your legs appear longer, as it gives the impression that your pants are too short for your pins. (How very Amazonian of you.)
On the flip side, long hems can make petite frames look like they’re drowning in fabric, particularly when they’re met with a flat sole. And let’s be real, pooled fabric at your feet is never a good look, no matter your height.
4. …Or Your Whole Leg
Original photo by Stephanie Maida
I’ve never met a mini I didn’t like—or that didn’t work wonders to make my petite pins seem to go on for a few days more. So if you’re planning an outfit around your flats, you might want to put on a shorter hem for a leggier display. It can really help to balance your proportions when you’re lacking a lift in the shoe department (no pun intended).
5. Stick to Neutral, Skin-Tone Colors
Edward Berthelot/Getty Images
Don’t get me wrong, I love a pop of pink or shiny chrome below the ankle, but when I’m thinking in terms of leg-lengthening utility, a neutral hue that matches my skin tone is always the best bet. By now you may be catching on—it is indeed another trick to extend the look of the leg and, folks, it works every time.
Alternatively, you can choose shoes that match the color of your bottoms or tights—for example, wearing black flats with black tights will achieve the same result. You’re welcome.
6. Match in Monochrome
Original photo by Stephanie Maida
When in doubt, match it out. If there’s one piece of advice that I’ve heard on repeat from stylists, it’s that monochrome outfits are a must for short women. As shortie-specialized style coach Angela Foster once explained to me, “Monochrome is always a flattering choice for petites because it creates a column of color and little else does [a better] job of making us look longer.” Even if you sandwich some leg in between (as I do here), the same-shade coloring creates a cohesive look that, visually, computes as one continuous line.
With these styling rules at the ready, even the most vertically challenged fashionistas can feel confident in flats—and coming from a life-long heel-wearer, that’s saying something. Go forth in style and comfort, my fellow short friends.
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